Owls and hawks
The animals that hunt mice for free are the ones poison hits hardest. Hawks and owls face high secondary poisoning risk from the strongest anticoagulants.
NPIC rodenticide fact sheet4Sent by a friend? Check your own house, free.
Can a mouse get into your house?
A mouse in your wall isn't out to get you. It found warmth, food and a gap to get through. Poison doesn't close the gap. It spreads through bugs, owls, hawks and pets, and the next mouse walks right in. Seal the gap and nothing has to die.
How it works
Walk the 8 spots with a flashlight. Use the finger-width rule: if a gap is about as wide as your finger, a mouse can use it.
Get your gaps in order, what to buy and how to fix each one. Choose which gaps you’ll do and which go to a pro.
Close each gap with metal and exterior-grade sealant, and check it off. Re-check each season.
What you can do here
Free guided check
Walk the 8 spots mice use to get in. Tap what you see, and get your gaps in order, starting with the one to fix first.
Steps and shopping list
Step-by-step how-tos for each gap, a shopping list and a printable plan. Saved on your device, so you can pick up where you left off.
Free photo plan
Send photos through the Mouse-proof my house form. We mark your gaps in a custom plan, with an option to be matched with a local no-poison pro.
Shared buildings
Outside walls and roofs are often shared. A one-page brief to bring your board or landlord on board.
What you can count on
We only teach sealing the gaps. Poison doesn’t close a gap, and it spreads to owls, hawks and pets.
Answers, notes and photos are saved only in your browser. They aren’t sent to us, and you can delete them any time.
Check my house, My plan and the guides are free to use. There’s no account to make.
Every how-to closes the gap with metal and exterior-grade sealant, not with filler alone.
If a gap is about the width of your finger, a mouse can use it. The check teaches you to look for exactly that.
Educational information in plain steps. It isn’t a substitute for a professional inspection, and the check tells you when a spot is better left to a pro.
Mice don't choose your home out of spite. A house is a warm, dry cave full of crumbs, and every pipe, vent and seam in it is a possible door. When a mouse finds one, it moves in, and its family follows.
So the question was never how do I kill the mouse? It's how did it get in? Answer that, close it, and the cycle ends for good.
Killing the mouse inside doesn't close the door it used. The next one walks right in.
Follow one poisoned mouse and you'll see why the "easy" fix spreads harm through the whole neighborhood, and still leaves the gap open.
dead burrowing owls tested on Marco Island, Florida had rat poison in their systems.5
Owls, hawks and foxes hunt mice for free. Poison turns them into casualties.
Rodent baits are flavored to attract animals. Pets and wildlife can take the bait too, which is why the EPA requires locked bait stations around children and pets.
Sources: NPIC, EPAMost rodent poisons are anticoagulants: the animal bleeds internally and dies days to two weeks later. Sick and slowing down, it keeps moving: back to the nest, into the walls, sometimes out into the open.
Source: EPAMice rarely travel far from their nest, so poisoned mice often die inside the house. That's the smell coming from inside the wall, where you can't reach it.
Source: UC IPMAn owl, hawk, fox, cat or dog that eats a poisoned mouse can be poisoned too. It's called secondary poisoning, and it reaches animals that never touched a bait box.
Sources: NPIC, EPANothing about the house changed. The next mouse finds the same opening, and the cycle starts again.
Source: UC IPM: exclusion is "the most successful and permanent form" of controlThe animals that hunt mice for free are the ones poison hits hardest. Hawks and owls face high secondary poisoning risk from the strongest anticoagulants.
NPIC rodenticide fact sheet4Dogs dig for flavored bait. Cats eat what they catch.
NPIC4The EPA warns that rodent poisons can harm children, and requires tamper-resistant stations wherever kids may be.
EPA3A mouse that dies in a wall void leaves an odor you can't reach and a sanitation problem behind the drywall.
UC IPM2Poison treats the mouse, not the opening. You end up paying to repeat it.
Fix the house,
not the mouse.
Mouse-proofing means finding every opening a mouse or rat can use and closing it permanently, so the house itself keeps them out. Brick, block, stucco and sound siding already do that job. The weak spots are where things meet: pipes, wires, vents, rooflines and doors.
If a gap is about as wide as your finger, a mouse can use it. Even a thin crack where two materials meet, like boards that only touch at the corners, can be gnawed open into a mouse-sized hole. Seal the seams, not just the obvious holes.
Tap a number to label a spot. These 8 are the usual suspects on most houses.
Based in part on the CDC's checklist of places to look.1 See all 8 entry points, with a how-to for each
Not sure where your gaps are?Send us photos of your home and we'll mark them for you in a custom plan, free.
Mouse-proof my houseHere are some of those entry points on real houses we’ve inspected. The highlighter shows where a mouse would get in.
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BeforeBefore photos from real homes we've inspected, with the entry point marked in highlighter. Cropped so nothing identifies the house.
No poison, no chemicals. Just a flashlight and an hour.
Go slowly around the house with a flashlight. Look low (foundation, sill, crawl space vents) and high (rooflines, gables, soffits).
If a gap is about as wide as your finger, a mouse can use it. Check every place a pipe, wire, cable or AC line goes through the wall.
Look for daylight under entry doors and at the bottom corners of the garage door. Doors and screens should fit tight.2
Mice are excellent climbers. Trim shrubs, vines and branches back from walls and the roof.2
Store food, pet food and birdseed in sealed containers, and keep garbage lids tight.2
Ask your pest company what's in the black boxes around your house. If it's poison, ask what's being sealed instead.
Use materials that last. Soft plugs like plastic screening, rubber, vinyl or wood don't stop mice.2 Permanent repairs use stainless steel or galvanized hardware cloth and other exterior-grade metal, sealed in with exterior-grade adhesives and sealants so there's nothing left to gnaw. Getting that right on your house is what the custom guides below are for.
Want a second set of eyes?Send photos from your walk-around and we'll turn them into a plan: each gap marked, what to seal it with, and in what order.
Mouse-proof my houseHouse mice and roof and Norway rats aren't native here. They arrived with people,2,7 and they can live inside alongside us for long stretches.2 So the ones you seal in have to come out.
Like locking your doors before you deal with a break-in. Until the gaps are closed, anything you remove is simply replaced by the next one.
Remove the house mice and rats sealed inside with indoor snap traps, set where kids and pets can't reach them.2 Traps only ever go hand in hand with sealing, so this is a single cleanout, not a cycle.
With the house closed, there's nothing new to catch. No bait boxes, no monthly visits, no next generation in the walls.
They're let out through a door that only opens outward, then the opening is sealed behind them. Never trapped, never killed.
Sealing comes first.A photo-based plan, free, shows you which gaps to close, and in what order, so the next one has nowhere to come in.
Mouse-proof my houseYes. There’s no sign-up and nothing to buy. It runs in your browser.
Only in this browser on your device. They aren’t sent to us. You can erase them any time with Delete my data on the My plan page.
The rule of thumb: if a gap is about the width of your finger, a mouse can use it. That’s why the check asks you to look closely at seams, corners and pipe holes.
Metal, sealed in with exterior-grade sealant: stainless steel or galvanized hardware cloth, or exterior-grade metal. Steel wool rusts and falls apart, and mice chew through foam, so those are common mistakes.
Your choice, gap by gap. Many ground-level spots are simple do-it-yourself fixes. If a spot needs a tall ladder or you aren’t sure, mark it for a pro in My plan.
Seal as you go. Set indoor snap traps along the walls while you seal, never as a substitute for sealing, and keep food, pet food and birdseed in sealed containers.
Poison doesn’t close the gap, so the next mouse walks right in, and it spreads to owls, hawks and pets. Why not poison.
Send us photos of your home and a few answers. We'll send back a custom how-to guide that marks each gap, says what to seal it with, and puts the steps in order.
It takes about five minutes, and your phone camera is all you need.
Mouse-proof my houseWe'll never sell your info. How we handle it
Close the way in, clear out the few already inside, and nothing has to die again: not the next mouse, not the owl, not the family dog.